THE TALE OF TWO GRAVES in Deià

When William Graves opened the door of his father’s old casa in the undulating hillside of Deià on the island of Mallorca, his eyes twinkled. Elena, whom he had been married to for 48 years, was with him. He was sporting a raincoat while she had a shawl around her neck and a jacket to boot, and they had been confabulating about the cold, rainy weather.

Winter of 1946—it was during this time of the year when the Graves family would gather together in front of the fireplace after a frugal dinner of potatoes and some broad green beans freshly harvested from the garden.

The house, despite its compact size, had a functional and modest space for the growing family. After all the children had climbed upstairs and gone to bed, Mrs. Beryl comfortably sat in her chair, relieved after a long day’s work. That moment she kept on imagining how she missed summer while Mr. Robert, a poet, scholar, and novelist, headed back to his study, scribbled some notes, and piled one sheet over the other until the last set of manuscripts was placed on top of the perfectly varnished wooden table waiting to be published next spring.

William, 74, the eldest son of Robert Graves to Beryl Pritchard, still vividly recalls these memories as he showed us the living room where they spent most of their childhood days with his siblings during the winter. Across from the kitchen is a hallway that leads to his father’s office. What used to be Robert Graves’s possessions are all neatly kept and preserved.

The author’s study where I, Claudius, Claudius the God and Count Belisarius together with other famous novesl and poetry were written.

The old letterpress machine was still operational, where it published some of his most influential novels of all time—I, Claudius, Claudius the God, and Count Belisarius, together with numerous books of poetry under “The Seizen Press.”

Where Did Robert Graves Live in Mallorca? Visiting Ca n’Alluny in Deià

Endearingly referred to as Ca n’Alluny among locals, Robert Graves’s house was built on the outskirts of the village and has a huge garden surrounding it. Nearby are the terraced hillsides that rise to an impressive 600 meters. Just over the steep-wrinkled cliffs of the Tramuntana Mountains, olive trees proliferate, almost engulfing the whole landscape that overlooks the Mediterranean.

This was the place that Robert Graves fell in love with when he first came to Deià in 1929. Every morning after his coffee, he would walk down to his patched-earth garden and think about planting oleander or carnation as an addition to his fruit orchard and vegetables. On a typical summer day, he spent his time visiting the village, where he would hear the braying of the donkeys as they pulled a loaded cart of olives, potatoes, and oranges. From time to time, the church bell rang out in unison with the sheep. The late afternoon light transformed the limestone houses into a candid ochre-colored hue.

Among the Hills of Deià: Robert Graves’ Final Resting Place

It was not so long ago when Deià was hidden from the watchful eyes of holidaymakers. A quick look into its past relates a rich history that traces back from the time of the Moorish invasion in Mallorca during the 10th to 13th centuries.

Though a sleepy coastal village in the early 20th century, Deià attracted many artists and writers and later became an enclave for those who were in search of a Bohemian lifestyle. Some came to spend a certain time; others decided to stay. It was Robert Graves’s presence and his legacy that made the world notice Deià.

He used the town as the setting for many of his stories and invited guests into his home that soon morphed into a literary salon and the hub of numerous writers and artists’ friends. Amongst those were Kingsley Amis, actors Alec Guinness and Peter Ustinov, who, like Graves, came to live in Mallorca. While he was also busy entertaining his world-renowned friends, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Winston Churchill, and Charlie Chaplin, who were staying at the newly opened Hotel Formentor.

Graves was engrossed with the writing of his poem “Not to Sleep,” a fevered love letter dedicated to Ava Gardner, who sojourned on the island from time to time. In the poem, Robert described his blissful insomnia that affected him during her visits—particularly stimulating, yet disturbing.

“I wanted to go where town was still town; and country, country.”

– Robert Graves

Photo (including the feature image above) by Raymond Petrik on Unsplash

The Robert Graves Trail in Deià: House Museum and Cemetery Visit

It took him 80 years to cease writing. By the age of 90, he bid goodbye to Deià and rested in a small churchyard on a hill. This was the last scene I saw after William pushed the stop button on his father’s documentary film.

The narrator’s voice faded simultaneously with the background music, and then, finally, the screen went blank. William turned the lights back on. His eyes twinkled just like the first time I saw them. It was the same kind of sparkle that I knew. I remembered a man sitting alone in a café; his frizzy, whitewashed hair and his rugged pullover made him look familiar to me. He spoke good Spanish, but I knew he was English. He took the last sip of his coffee, placed some monedas on the table, and finally stood up. He picked up his hat, and just when he turned around, his eyes met mine.

How strange to see Robert Graves’ life condensed into a 14-minute video clip. Though it was a quick memory trip of a great writer’s life, it was, without a doubt, long enough to last a lifetime. ✍🏻

Updated April 2026: A Reference Guide To Exploring Robert Graves’ Life in Deià: House, Grave, and Literary Legacy

Before you go:

Where is Mallorca located?

Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands in Spain. It lies off the eastern coast of mainland Spain, near the city of Valencia, and forms part of the Balearic archipelago along with Menorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. The island’s capital, Palma de Mallorca, serves as the main gateway for international visitors.
 

What is Mallorca known for?

Mallorca is known for its Mediterranean turquoise tinged cove beaches, dramatic limestone mountains, and deep cultural heritage. Beyond tourism, it has long attracted writers and artists, including Robert Graves, who settled in the small coastal village of Deià.
 

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When is the best time to visit the island?

• Spring (April–June): Mild weather, fewer crowds
• Autumn (September–October): Warm sea, quieter atmosphere
• Summer: Popular but crowded and more expensive

How do you get to Robert Graves’ house (Ca n’Alluny) from Palma Airport?

• By car: ~45 minutes via Ma-1110 road
• By bus: Take a bus to Valldemossa or Sóller, then a taxi to Deià
• By taxi: Direct but more expensive (~€50–€70)

How much are tickets to Ca n’Alluny (Robert Graves House Museum)?

• Adults: €7–€10
• Students/Seniors: Reduced rates
• Children: Often free or discounted

(Approximate ticket prices. Always check the official website for updated pricing.)
 

How to get to Robert Graves’ final resting place?

The late poet, novelist and literary critic is buried in the cemetery of Deià, a short walk from the village center. His grave is simple and understated, reflecting his life in Mallorca.
 

What are Robert Graves’ most famous works?

The Robert Graves Society helps promote the late poet’s life and his astonishing literary contribution. Some of his best-known works include below.

• I, Claudius
• Claudius the God
• Goodbye to All That
• The White Goddess
• The Greek Myths