An painting depicting ships on the sea

The TALE of TWO QUINTAS in Funchal Madeira: Hidden Estates, Culture and Tranquil Escapes

by Jan Sevilla

In Madeira, Quintas are becoming the new cultural touchstones and enduring icons that define Portuguese hospitality.

 

Tucked away in the hills above Funchal, Madeira, a world of hidden quintas offers a rare glimpse into the island’s living heritage. Far from the busy tourist hotspots, these historic estates blend culture, tradition, and quiet luxury—preserving the essence of Portuguese hospitality in serene, exclusive settings. This post explores two unique quintas that reveal a more authentic and quietly captivating side of Madeira.

 

It was the best of times. I am traveling to Madeira. It was the worst of times. The plane that would take me to Portugal’s ethereal island in the Atlantic, was nowhere in sight.

It was the spring of hope. The long winter days of hunkering indoors and socially-distanced from the world were ebbing away. So too was my paranoia – quietly dissipating by the sight of a rumbling flying metal canister taxiing on the runway.

I was told that if one arrives in Madeira, it should be viewed from the sea. Not because this was how it was first discovered in 1419, around the time when Portugal began its ‘Age of Discovery’, leading on to several expeditions across the globe; but simply because, it’s the way it should be.

Imagine sailing across the North Atlantic for months at the mercy of a tempestuous sea and then happening on a lush, geogically-dramatic island. It would have struck anyone with awe, even the most jaded of travelers.

In the advent of new-age travel, one experiences it from a bird’s eye view. Such in a way that my generation is expected to. You hop on a plane and land on one of the planet’s shortest strip of runways often plagued by wind gusts and lingering fog. It’s enough to convert a nonbeliever.

Yet regardless of how one arrives, the feeling would have been the same for me and of my predecessors – the wide-eyed explorers, opportunist merchants, conniving pirates and their band of throat-slitters and even castaways lost at sea.
 

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A Portuguese cityscape

Customers sipping drinks

In Funchal, Madeira’s capital, it is simply a place of gentler pleasures with a subtropical climate; the city’s attributes that have long lured travelers, pilgrims and sybarites.

Winston Churchill used to come here. Captain Cook made a stop-over before sailing on to Rio, then to Tierra del Fuego before reaching Australia. If I were to chase the prospect  of my own version of ‘eternal spring’ while enveloped in a fecundity of flora, it may just be a good idea to rely on the wisdom of a 60-year old giant tortoise.

It’s not every day one gets a recommendation from a prehistoric vertebrate that spends its entire youth wandering leisurely around a lawn surrounded by vegetation and warm sunshine. For six decades, ‘Colombo’ the tortoise is perhaps the longest staying guest at Quinta Jardins Do Lago. This might just be the ideal place to start.
 

Hidden Quintas in Funchal Madeira: Exclusive Historic Estates Off the Tourist Path

 
 

QUINTA JARDINS DO LAGO

 

Nestling on one of the hills surrounding Funchal, Quinta Jardins Do Lago oozes in 18th century charm and boasts more than 600 species of plants that could easily turn into a field lesson to any budding botanist.

Here is the exotic Bleeding Glory Bower and over there is the Black-eyed Susan sloshed over walkways. That’s the Golden Trumpet beside the Corkscrew flower, and just behind is the Mysore Clock Vine. I have never heard of such plant names before. To me, a ‘corkscrew’ is something you order in a bar as the ‘clock’ strikes 6pm, then only to be awaken by woeful ‘trumpet’ the morning after.

Quinta Jardins do Lago in Funchal Madeira is surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and palms

Hidden historic estate in Madeira with old stone architecture and rare botanical plants and trees

Being far from the city and tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood, the property has a countryside vibe and an old-world charm – colonial themed interiors, gleaming marble floors and antique collections sumptuously scattered all over this 41-room Madieran Quinta.

Back in the days, it was home to both British and French families and a mainstay for General William Beresford, Commander of the British forces during the Napoleonic Wars. The estate was then converted into an intimate 5-star luxury property in 2000. Perhaps the enduring legacy that the old General left was his sideboard, that adorns the restaurant’s dining area of the same name.
 

📍Book a room at Quinta Jardins do Lago : Check Booking for availability >>

 
One is encouraged to get up late here. After all, this isn’t a kind of hotel where you would need to rush to get a good table for breakfast or compete with other sun worshippers for that perfect warm spot next to the heated pool. Whilst it is relaxing to linger on, in one of the Romeo and Juliet balconies (every room has one) that reveal views of the garden, the sea and the surrounding hills, it’s also not a bad idea to head to the sauna for a Turkish bath.

I wondered if my pursuit of eternal spring is turning out to be a rising dream of hedonism. A quick look at the pampered tortoise somehow made me feel a little inferior.

A tortoise in the garden

It was at this time, after petting Colombo, I caught up with Alberto Reynolds; smartly dressed, salt-pepper coif and with eyes that glint with curiosity. He is the kind that could speak volumes about good hospitality and a genuine welcome. After all, Alberto has been looking after and continues to inject transformative ideas to two sought-after properties on the island – Quinta Jardins do Lago and Quinta da Casa Branca.

“Quintas are like staples in Madiera”, he told me. “Many British and Portuguese nobles owned grand manors and bought estates back when the Madeiran wine industry was at its peak. These manors have been passed down from several generations and many of them are being reborn to become hotels. As custodians of hospitality, we breathe life into them.”

Hinting about my personal pursuit, he couldn’t resist opening his doors for me to his other beloved Quinta. “You would love it there too”, he went on to say before heading to check on his longest staying guest. By the next morning, I have checked in to my new room in the astonishingly preserved 20th century manor.
 

Historic Quintas of Madeira: Icons of Portuguese Hospitality and Heritage

 
 

QUINTA DA CASA BRANCA

 

Quinta da Casa Branca needs no introduction. Let the birds that bathe amongst the dew-soaked grass and chirp all day do the talking. Let the bougainvilleas, the African and flame trees that nick one another in the soft, offshore breeze do the welcoming. Let the homemade scones and afternoon teas do the pampering. Let a plate of octopus glazed with caviar and a crispy Sauvignon from the Douro Valley do the indulging.

What was once a banana plantation in the mid-19th century and owned by the former wine trade pioneer, John Leacock, Quinta da Casa Branca’s earthly beginnings seem to have a sedating effect on people who chose to leave a frenzied city somewhere across the globe in favor of an agricultural sanctuary.

Hidden historic estate in Madeira turned into hotel and away from the crowd - Flying Baguette

Hidden historic estate in Madeira turned into hotel and away from the crowd - Flying Baguette

Hidden historic estate in Madeira turned into hotel and away from the crowd - Flying Baguette

The restaurant in the hotel

In case you are wondering, there are still banana trees around, tokens of the retreating world and ensconced in between them, is a refreshing pool exclusively for adults, sunbeds sprawled across a tranquil ground.

It is easy to understand why many have called it an oasis, while others describe it as a secret hideaway. This is no exaggeration. A quick peek at Tripadvisor reveals the fitting nature of this acclaimed hotel, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group.
 

📍Book a room at Quinta da Casa Branca (SLH of the World) : Check Booking for availability >>

 
The main part of the hotel is strikingly modern comprising 49 rooms. A swanky low rise architecture made of glass, steel and slate, a homage to the volcanic quality of Madeira. A few steps across the manicured lawn, stands the opulent Manor House Suites. Inside you stumble some of the Leacock’s private collection of worldly accoutrements on display, fit-for-a-king private residences, a salon and a library, as well as a formal Dining Room Restaurant offering inventive cuisine in the evening.
 

Portuguese Quintas in Funchal Madeira: Unique, Tranquil Escapes Away from the Crowds

 
I could see that a Zen garden master had also been busy attending to all sorts of tropical trees, botanical plants, vines and bushes that make this 5-star hotel as inviting as anyone’s imagined Shangri-la.

Perhaps the ultimate hidden pleasure of this hotel is that one doesn’t feel the unraveling of time. It’s as if, everything had momentarily froze, including the season that smelled of eternal spring. It may have been a short trip, staying two nights in each Quinta of different persona. That’s surely nothing to pout about. One feels better and kinder and to see a rainbow at the end of my visit, it seems Madeira, had fulfilled its promise. ✍🏻

A rainbow with the sea in the background

 

Updated April 2026: A quick guide to getting to know Madeira and the island’s cultural icons of hospitality.

 

Before you go:

Madeira is a Portuguese island in the Atlantic Ocean, southwest of mainland Portugal and off the northwest coast of Africa. Known for its dramatic landscapes and mild year-round climate, it offers spectacular scenery, from lush valleys to rugged cliffs, making it a unique and peaceful island escape.
 

What are quintas in Madeira and why are they historically significant?

Quintas are historic manor houses and estates set within gardens or agricultural land, deeply rooted in Madeira’s cultural heritage. Once home to Portuguese noble families and connected to wine production, many have been carefully restored into elegant boutique stays. These historic quintas reflect Madeira’s architecture, tradition, and enduring sense of hospitality.
 

Why should you stay in a quinta in Madeira instead of a hotel?

Staying in a quinta in Madeira offers a more unique and authentic experience than a standard hotel. Beyond comfort, quintas provide tranquil surroundings, beautifully maintained gardens, historic character, and a closer connection to local culture. For travelers seeking peaceful and exclusive stays in Madeira, they offer a more intimate and memorable way to experience the island.
 

What is the best local treat to experience and enjoy in the island?

A true Madeira experience often begins with espetada—succulent beef skewered on laurel wood and grilled over open flames—typically costing around €12–€20 per portion. It is traditionally paired with poncha, a bold mix of sugarcane rum, citrus, and honey (€3–€6). For a more refined experience, try traditional Madeira honey cake (bolo de mel) alongside a glass of aged Madeira wine, often compared to port, with tastings ranging from €5–€15. Together, these flavours reflect the island’s rich culinary heritage and warm, celebratory spirit.

 

Read these recommended stories to experience more of Portugal’s hospitality and charm:

 
>> Quinta da Casa Branca Funchal – Hotel Review

>> The Rebello Porto – Hotel Review

>> LISBON state of mind

>> The SHORT HAPPY LIFE of Colette

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25 Comments

  1. WanderingKellers

    Great Post. Looks like an amazing place to visit. I love rainbows. Even though I know scientifically why they happen it is still magical to me.

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Thanks a lot ☺️ Madeira is really an exceptional place – of landscape, climate and the melange of old-school charm and right blend of modernity.

      Reply
  2. Bernie and Jess Watt

    All those colors and then that rainbow reminds me of Australia, but so much more exotic! Looks like you found a true patch of paradise in that Quinta!

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Thanks for the comment ☺️ Patches of Paradise indeed. I still keep asking myself of why did we leave so soon?

      Reply
  3. Carina | bucketlist2life

    I am all in for a place that’s “geologically dramatic”. I bet Madeira is gorgeous whether it’s seen from the air or the water!

    Reply
  4. Chalk and cheese travels

    Quanta Casa Blanca looks like an absolute paradise. I have never been to Madeira but I must add to my list of places looks and sound beautiful

    Reply
  5. SteveH

    What a great blog – you are a great story teller. I feel more relaxed just reading the post and looking at the incredible photos. A Zen feeling! THXS for sharing this gem.

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Thank you so much for the read and kind words 😊 😌 So glad that you enjoyed the post and brought you some feeling of Zen and a dose of inspiration. I think I just unearthed your next two Shangri-las.

      Reply
  6. Jen Nilsson

    Ohhhh that countryside hotel where you are inspired to sleep in. That is IDEAL! Beautiful post and beautiful trip!

    Reply
  7. Becky Exploring

    Madeira looks like a beautiful escape and these quintas look like the perfect spots to relax. Need to add Madeira to the bucket list. I’d love to meet Colombo – what a distinguished tortoise he is! 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Colombo is from the Galapagos Islands and I’m sure he will be happy to meet you, even more so the island of Madeira. I just had a wonderful feeling that the Quintas will spoil you like it had indulgently spoiled us. Happy trip soon to Madeira 😉

      Reply
  8. Yan

    Always a good story teller. Keep it up Jan. 👏 Hawodest jud kaayo ba. 😁

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Thank you so much Yan 😉 pamugasay nani para katkat usahay haha. On a more serious note, I’m so glad you love the tale of the two astonishing Quintas. HOpe you come here more often
      #flyingbaguette at your service 😉

      Reply
  9. Julie Dent

    A fabulous read Jan. You transported me there through your descriptions, stories and photos.

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Thank you so much Julie ☺️ So glad that I could take you to Madeira on a visual journey and with a little of storytelling. As someone who finds great pleasure in gardening like yourself, it is truly a place of inspiration and immersion. Madeira beckons 😊

      Reply
  10. John Quinn

    Ah you have me dreaming of Madeira. This is a side of the island I haven’t looked into. The comfort needed after a days hiking. Who doesn’t want to hang with a turtle in luxurious gardens.

    Reply
    • Jan Sevilla

      Well it’s a dreamy place John after all. Would be so nice to come back one day and scale up its hills and take a boat to the neighboring uninhabited islands. Madeira is the Portuguese representation & slightly modern version of the Garden of Eden I think ☺️

      Reply
  11. Stefan

    I love how you combine marvellous story-telling with a lot of information about Madeira and the quintas. I had always presumed Cook would have gone past Cape of Good Hope, not the other way round.

    Romeo and Juliet balconies, a botanical garden with corkscrews and trumpets, and a tortoise called Colombo… what’s not to like. A lot of our Twitter friends seem to have visited the archipelago recently. Perhaps it’s time Ellie & I give it a go, too… Thank you for sharing, Jan.

    Reply
  12. Mitch

    It is clear that Colombo the Tortoise has the right idea – and that is to enjoy this island paradise at a leisurely pace. Madeira seems to be a wonderful place – with plenty of lush vegetation that would delight any botanist! Both quintas look absolutely charming and it’s great to learn about connections to the wine industry. Definitely places to relax and unwind, maybe whilst sipping a Madeira wine in the sunshine?

    Reply
  13. Lyn (aka Jazz)

    I feel relaxed and pampered from simply reading this. Madeira is a magical place and the Quinta would add to that. I would spend my day wandering gardens, exploring public rooms, and I would enjoy time with the tortoise!

    Lyn| http://www.ramblynjazz.com

    Reply
  14. Pam

    My mom really wants to go to Madeira with me and now I can see why. It sounds pretty magical and colorful! It reminds me of an oasis with all the greenery and flowers. Absolutely stunning.

    Reply
  15. Carolin

    Your quinta came with a pet tortoise? How cool is that? I hear good things about Madeira and haven’t had the chance for a visit yet, but I like the idea of a relaxed and laid-back picturesque quinta, surrounded by banana trees and blue skies. Gorgeous photography as usual, you have talent capturing that rainbow. Magical!

    Carolin | Solo Travel Story

    Reply
  16. Emma

    Setting us up with a Dickensian intro I wasn’t sure what to expect, but Madeira, and more specifically the Quintas, seem nothing short of paradise. And with a wise resident reptile to interact with, thus seems like a fabulous holiday destination. While it might be nice to sail the seas around the island (hopefully without pirates), the view from above seems fairly unique also. Either way, some wonderful places to relax and enjoy the sun

    Reply
  17. Angela

    I’m a little suspicious to comment on this post because, as well as being Portuguese, I’m passionate about the island of Madeira, also known as “The Pearl of the Atlantic”.
    The article made me want to return to the island where the sun shines almost all year round and the people always welcome you with a warm smile. The food is wonderful and life is peaceful.
    Once again, good suggestions and great photos 🙂

    Reply
  18. Barry

    These quintas all look stunningly beautiful and I’d be happy to stay in any of them.
    Madeira has long been on my list to visit and your wonderful photos encourage to visit even sooner.
    That green foliage everywhere, even banana trees in the hotels gardens is such a draw for me and is such a natural part of the landscape here.
    I’d happily look up a few of these quintas o stay n and enjoy a relaxing stay.

    Reply

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