With its mild Mediterranean winter climate, Spain’s largest island in the Balearics is a travel secret hiding in plain sight. Overflowing with an endless array of galleries, restaurants, baroque churches and medieval streets, Palma is a winter city to enjoy sans the madding crowd.

 

I knew that you brought a box of ensaimadas!

I heard you crave for pa’amboli every now and then, sobrasada sausages and frito mallorquín. 

No doubt, you’ve been missing Palma.

Yes, the pictures told me that you’ve taken a stroll to a tree shaded avenue in Paseo de Born, and many times you passed along the colonnades at nearby Carrer de Jaune III. You fell into a kind of ease just imagining the clinking sound of masts from yachts docked along the marina on your way to Palma’s Basilica de Santa Maria. Despite the cathedral’s aged stonework, the 14th century edifice still proudly presides over the old harbor wall never losing its glory and glamor.

In Palma de Majorca, I imagine that the island is full of palacios and promenades. After all, the Marivent Palace of Principe Juan Carlos I, King of Spain is there. Its casco viejo or old town, radiates an allure among visitors who set foot into the historical nucleus. Bars, chic restaurants, old fincas were revived to splendor and transformed into boutique hotels that even after dark, bombinate with life.

A winter in Majorca by George Sand

Yes, you’ve seen the majestic limestone cliffs, as well as the rocky overhang in search of a soho boho adventure in Deià. Those jagged cliffs that flirt and plunge into the Mediterranean – from deep shade of blue and then turquoise in the next.

Like George Sand used to say “Majorca is the painter’s El Dorado” who wrote Winter in Majorca depicting her sojourn with Frédéric Chopin in 1839.

Like many others before you, you’ve been smitten by the wonders of this capital city of the Balearic Islands in Spain. Like many of them, you too are showing signs and symptoms of Majorcan nostalgia.

By the way, I also found out about your trip to Sóller, that quaint town on the other side of the island just off the Spanish east coast? It must have delighted you to board the ancient Sóller train and only to alight and find refuge at the 1723 Ca N’Aí farm owned by the Morell’s family, which is now a grand rural hotel surrounded by orange and olive trees.

A hotel's courtyard

You’ve been talking about it in your sleep too! Describing the place as a charming little oasis with sweeping views of the Sierra de Tramuntana. Whereby on the rooftop terraza, you witnessed the late-November sun giving a soft glow to the vast farmland offering a unique vibe that sets it apart from the rest of the island.

The vintage floor and the beamed ceilings as well as the bricks made the place very cozy and furnished with delicate taste. Just a few minutes walk from the finca, is a hill that sends cyclists and hikers to another pretty village. But most of all, you got obsessed with the collection of olive oils craftily mixed with different herbs and spices.

Just the other day, you told me that you had to attend some meetings in Barcelona but somehow I received a call yesterday that it was postponed to next week. Yes, you flew to Barcelona alright but that was after the day you spent a night at the Castell son Claret. What truly surprised me is that you stayed in a castle!

The entrance of the Hotel Castell Son Claret in PalmaCastell son Claret, once a forgotten castle in the middle of the wild Balearic maquis of the provincial Calvian outback was released from a long spell by a German couple and lovingly restored the ivy-clad fortres into a sanctuary of calm and respite.

Just a quarter-hour drive from the west part of Palma, adjacent to the village of Es Capdella that lies in the foot of Tramuntana Mountains, sits the 325-acre estate offering panoramic views of the countryside. How your eyes twinkled with excitement meandering amongst its lush gardens, serene patios and to know that inside the castle’s thick stone walls are 38 bespoke rooms of great comfort and style.

Yes, I knew everything! And that included the part about missing Majorca – when you planned to book a flight last night while I was asleep.  But tonight, once you’re in deep slumber, I’m going to eat all the ensaimadas you hid in the cupboard, reach for a green tea and tomorrow our bags will all be packed.


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5 COMMENTS

  1. Don’t touch my ensalmadas! Haha Enjoying a box of them while people watching in the old town sounds quite idyllic. I’m a bit embarrassed, I didn’t realize Majorca was an island! Haha. I’d love to see the sea cliffs too.

  2. Ah Jan, you’ve caught me! I have indeed been to Palma and Soller and unfortunately missed out on some of the best sights to see there. I was a guest at a friend’s place and well she wasn’t so much into hosting and showing me the island. But what I’ve seen positively surprised me. Palma is absolutely beautiful and its marketing is a sheer crime (in Germany they mostly promote the party mile). Soller has some incredible hidden restaurants in the nearby hills, which I got on my list for a revisit (whenever that’ll be).

    Carolin | Solo Travel Story

  3. Friends of mine went to Palma and described it just as you have.
    They opted to stay away from the heavily touristy areas and concentrate on the inland areas, that same train ride as you did and explore more off the beaten track sites and were amazed at the beauty of the island.
    Like many places, the island has a reputation for sun, sand and sea but look further and there are many places that escape the tourists gaze!

  4. oooh, it’s been way too long since I visited Palma (one of my first international solo destinations). Your post made me realize how much had been lost in the murkiness of my memories. I must add Stóller to my list, it looks absolutely beautiful. I can see myself enjoying a drink on a terrace with gorgeous views.

    Lyn | http://www.ramblynjazz.com

  5. To my shame, I have not bought that box of ensaïmada nor scoffed the pa’amboli or delicious-sounding sobrasada. I haven’t tasted all those varieties of olive oil. And, having read your post, I feel I really should! On top of those foodie delights, I love the idea of exploring the old town, admiring those dramatic cliffs and staying in a castle.
    Maybe, just maybe, I will book that trip in my dreams tonight…

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